Improvement in bustles



J'OII'N BROUGIITON, OF BROOKLYN, NEW YORK.

Letters Patent No. 108,872, dated'Noyember 1, 1870.

IMPROVEMENT-IN B US-TLE'S.

Hw-w- The Schedule referred to in these Letters Patent:- and making part of the salme.

To all whom tt may concern:

`Be it known that I, JOHsT BROUGHTON, of Brooklyn, in the county of Kin-gs and State ot' New York, have invented a new and useful Improvement in Bustles, of which the following is a full, clear, and exact description, reference being had tothe aecompanying drawing forming part ot' this specification, and in whichy Figure l represents a longitudinal view' of a flexible. waistband with a tension-cloth attachechand with spring wires, which are used ,in 'the construction of' the bustle, secured to the waistband, but 'prior t0A their being sprung over and held in position'bfy therl tension-cloth Figure 2 is a top view or plan ot the bustle, complete;

Figure 3, a vertical section through the centel' of the bustle from front to rear; and

Figure 4, a view, in perspective, of the bustle, with the parts in position as when in use.

Similar letters of reference indicate corresponding' parts throughout the several figures.

'lhis invention consists ina novel arrangement of lthe springs of' a bustle in relation to and in connec- .tion with the waistband ot' the bustle, and with a'tensten-cloth connecting them with the band, whereby 'they are made to give a iiriner and yet a sufficiently# elastic support to the skirt or skirts, without any bearing against the lower portion of the spine or back of the wearer.

Referring to the accompanying drawingf- A is a band of cloth or other suitable made-sueiently long to pass around the -body of material,

the wearer, and fastened in front by a buckle or otherlneans. This band is made double, orof two thicknesses, and gradually widened to a point midway of its length.

Between this double band a series of straight springs, B, made of hoop-skirt wire or other suitable material,

' and of varying lengths, is passed, at their one end,

and securely fastened to the hand, as at a a. Said springs, when so attached, occupy positionsv at right angles or thereabout to the straight line of the band.

C is a tension-cloth in the form of a lime, the inner and concave edge of which is sewn or attached to the lower edge of the band A, and to the outer or convex edge is secured a tape, b, so as to occupya position at right angles or thereabout to the surface of said tension-cloth.

At or near t-he outer and convex edge of the tensionfcloth C a series `of holes is made, throughvwhich the free ends of the springsB are threaded or passed,

and then fastened, by means of metal clasps or spane gles c, to the tape I), so that the springs form, at that portion ot their length contiguous to the band'A, a series of bows or arcs, to which the tension-cloth C "acts as a restraining cord, preventing the springs B from dying up and assuming, by

their elasticity, theirformer and normal straight lines The lower or free ends of the springs form elastic legs or extensions, which are connected laterally, or circumferentially, as it were, by a tape, d, the ends` of whichare fastened to the band A at their point or points'ot` intersection.

The angle or backward dare of the lower and free ends of the springs B is determinedby the point at which, in their length, they are fastened to thevouter edge'of the tension-cloth C. Thus, if the outer edge of -thetension-'cloth be moved upward and 'fastened to the springs at p'oints in their lengths nearer to the waistor body-band, then the outward flare of the lower jand free ends of the springs wouldbe increased, as

shown by the dotted line e, in g. 3. If on the contrary, theA outer-edge of the tension-cloth were moved downward and fastened nearer the free ends of the springs, then the outward 'flare would be diminished, as shown by the dotted line f.

The tensionfcloth C, being in the form of a lune,

. determines the height and width of the arcs formed by the springs B when sprung over and restrained in position, and as said cloth, forming the equivalent y of' a chord of each arc of a circle, gradually diminishe'sin width from the center or rear ot the bustle4 toward the ends or parts situated over the hips ot' thewearer, so the arcs formed by the springs gradually diminishes in a like ratio. A

Increasing the width of the band A at the middle of its length .has the effect of bracing up and pre- Vventing the rear springs from drooping 0r sagging under the weight of the dress, and admits of the use ot' lighter and more e'xible springs than would otherwi'se be required were the band narrower or of an equal width throughout its entire length.

The lower edge of the band A is in a straight lille corresponding `to the lowest horizontal line of'the waist of the wearer, and the widening of the band at the back or rear part has the eiect of raising the fupper surface of the bustle somewhat above the small ot' the waist, which ada-pts the bristle to aV long-waisted person.

To adapt the bustle to a short waist, by making it set lower on the person, the band A is reversed, as represented by the dotted line g in fig. l, leaving the upper edge 0f the band straight, and so that the band is widened in a downward direction.

What is hereclaimed, and desired to be secured by Letters Patent, is-f The springs B B,'secured each at one end to the lower part'ot' the waistband, thence running up across the band, and being secured to the upper part thereof; thence springing upward and turning over in arched form, and combined with the'vband by means of a tension-cloth, substantially as herein described.

JOI-IN JBItOUGIITON.

Witnesses:

f FRED. Haynes, f

' AurHUaKlNsInn 

